last week i found myself lost in yet another dazzling italian city . . .
its gritty charm and splendor
deeply layered
its cultural soul revealing
the spirit of arrivals and departures
founded in the 4th century bc
independent maritime republic 1005 to 1797
famous foods, famous citizens
fierce ingenuity, hard-earned elegance
for centuries a city of
shipbuilders, merchants, and bankers
medieval, renaissance, baroque, and gothic
art and architecture
a very important mediterranean seaport
my own italian grandmother
departed from this port in 1929
20 years old and leaving her native country behind
journeying to a new continent
with her new american husband
heavily targeted during world war 2
many buildings destroyed or damaged
the first northern italian city to rise
against nazis and fascists
meandering along the famed caruggi
a tangled labyrinth of narrow alleyways
the wandering-and-wondering discovery of
what’s waiting around the next fascinating bend
a glimpse of G E N O A . . .
“italy’s largest seaport is indefatigably contradictory, full at once of grandeur, squalor, sparkling light and deep shade. it’s a gateway to the riviera for many travellers today, but a weighty architectural heritage speaks of its former glory – the most serene republic of genoa ruled over the mediterranean waves during the 12th to the 13th centuries – and history feels alive in genoa. no more is this true than in its extensive old city, an often-confronting reminder of premodern life with its twisting maze of caruggi (narrow streets), largely intact. emerge blinking from this thrillingly dank heart to via garibaldi and the splendid enlightenment-era gold-leaf halls”
~lonely planet
the narrow maze of intriguing alleyways
that unravel the true pulse of the city
and the intriguing mix of crumbling textures and muted colors everywhere
magical charm around every corner
a glimpse of G E N O A . . .
“you will see an imperious city
crowned by alpine mountains
superb for the people and for the walls
lady of the sea: genoa”
~francesco petrarca (1358)
eric and i had already been to genoa several times (it’s only 85 km away), but always for boring-and-sensible reasons . . . to arrive at/depart from its airport, even to buy a gate opener for villa magnolia. but not once to just fully experience its aura, to breathe in its complex character with all of my senses.
a glimpse of G E N O A . . .
according to wikipedia . . . “the capital of one of the most powerful maritime republics for over seven centuries, genoa has been nicknamed la superba (the proud one) due to its glorious past and impressive landmarks.”
this year has, of course, been strange and different and somewhat unsettling . . . as it has for everyone, no matter their location in the world. plans changed and cancelled, fears and disappointments heavy. a few things in my life right now are not exactly how i’d like them to be, and i know others are experiencing this as well. but along with its difficulties, 2020 has given me an unexpected sense of ease and the gift of extra minutes. and that has allowed me to grasp opportunities this summer i hadn’t previously had the time for, including a chance to (safely) explore my immediate italian surroundings in more depth and greater detail.
i sometimes get so caught up in my day-to-day life that i forget i’m in one of the most beautiful countries on earth! i’ve decided to live the very best i can, within my parameters . . . which just happen to be in italy. it’s been such fun exploring my immediate area in more depth these past few months, finally hanging out (after living here almost 4 years) in amazing places so close to my home.
i’ve always known that i take in and process the world primarily through words rather than images. however, in the last few years (with the help of my iphone), i’ve realized that taking photos helps me with that next step, the part that had been missing for me. when i go somewhere new, i really do just sit and soak it all in. but it can still be a little overwhelming . . . bombarded with the sights, the sounds, the energy all at once. so i also take tons and tons of pictures (i took over 500 in genoa). and it’s when i’m going through them later, editing a bit and remembering a lot, making connections that i hadn’t noticed at the time, that i truly appreciate the scene / the event / the moment much much more. the experience is now fully complete for me.
my italian-born grandma used to speak of this city with awe in her voice. now i know why.
a glimpse of G E N O A . . .
